CHAP. 26.—VOYAGES TO INDIA.
But before we enter into any details respecting these
countries, it will be as well to mention what Oncsicritus[1]
has stated, who commanded the fleet of Alexander, and sailed
from India[2] into the heart of Persia, and what has been
more recently related by Juba; after which I shall speak of the
route along these seas which has been discovered in later years,
and is followed at the present day. The journal of the voyage
of Onesicritus and Nearchus has neither the names of the
stations, nor yet the distances set down in it; and first of all,
it is not sufficiently explained where Xylenepolis was, and
near what river, a place founded by Alexander, and from
which, upon setting out, they took their departure. Still, however, the following places are mentioned by them, which are
worthy of our notice. The town of Arbis, founded by Nearchus on the occasion of this voyage; the river Nabrus,[3]
navigable for vessels, and opposite to it an island, at a distance
of seventy stadia; Alexandria, built by Leonnatus[4] by order
of Alexander in the territories of this people; Argenus, with
a very convenient harbour; the river Tonberos,[5] a navigable
stream, around whose banks are the Pasiræ; then come the Ichthyophagi, who extend over so large a tract of coast that it
took thirty days[6] to sail past their territory; and an island
known by the names of the "Island of the Sun"[7] and the "Bed
of the Nymphs," the earth of which is red, and in which every
animal instantly dies; the cause of which, however, has not been
ascertained.[8] Next to these is the nation of the Ori, and then
the Hyctanis,[9] a river of Carmania, with an excellent harbour
at its mouth, and producing gold; at this spot the writers
state that for the first time they caught sight of the Great
Bear.[10] The star Arcturus too, they tell us, was not to be seen
here every night, and never, when it was seen, during the
whole of it. Up to this spot extended the empire of the
Achæmenidæ,[11] and in these districts are to be found mines of
copper, iron, arsenic, and red lead.
They next came to the Promontory of Carmania,[12] from
which the distance across to the opposite coast, where the
Macæ, a nation of Arabia, dwell, is fifty miles; and then to
three islands, of which that of Oracla[13] is alone inhabited, being
the only one supplied with fresh water; it is distant from the
mainland twenty-five miles; quite in the Gulf, and facing
Persia, there are four other islands. About these islands sea-serpents[14] were seen swimming towards them, twenty cubits
in length, which struck the fleet with great alarm. They
then came to the island of Athothradus, and those called the
Gauratæ, upon which dwells the nation of the Gyani; the
river Hyperis,[15] which discharges itself midway into the Persian Gulf, and is navigable for merchant ships; the river
Sitiogagus, from which to Pasargadæ[16] is seven days' sail;
a navigable river known as the Phristimus, and an island
without a name; and then the river Granis,[17] navigable
for vessels of small burden, and flowing through Susiane;
the Deximontani, a people who manufacture bitumen, dwell
on its right bank. The river Zarotis comes next, difficult of
entrance at its mouth, except by those who are well acquainted with it; and then two small islands; after which the
fleet sailed through shallows which looked very much like a
marsh, but were rendered navigable by certain channels which
had been cut there. They then arrived at the mouth of the
Euphrates, and from thence passed into a lake which is formed
by the rivers Eulæus[18] and Tigris, in the vicinity of Charax,[19]
after which they arrived at Susa,[20] on the river Tigris. Here,
after a voyage of three months, they found Alexander celebra-
ting a festival, seven months after he had left them at Patale.[21]
Such was the voyage performed by the fleet of Alexander.
In later times it has been considered a well-ascertained
fact that the voyage from Syagrus,[22] the Promontory of
Arabia, to Patale, reckoned at thirteen hundred and thirty-five miles, can be performed most advantageously with the
aid of a westerly wind, which is there known by the name
of Hippalus.
The age that followed pointed out a shorter route, and a
safer one, to those who might happen to sail from the same
promontory for Sigerus, a port of India; and for a long time
this route was followed, until at last a still shorter cut was
discovered by a merchant, and the thirst for gain brought
India even still nearer to us. At the present day voyages are
made to India every year: and companies of archers are carried
on board the vessels, as those seas are greatly infested with
pirates.
It will not be amiss too, on the present occasion, to set forth
the whole of the route from Egypt, which has been stated to
us of late, upon information on which reliance may be placed,
and is here published for the first time. The subject is one well
worthy of our notice, seeing that in no year does India drain
our empire of less than five hundred and fifty millions[23] of
sesterces, giving back her own wares in exchange, which are
sold among us at fully one hundred times their prime cost.
Two miles distant from Alexandria is the town of Juliopolis.[24]
The distance thence to Coptos, up the Nile, is three hundred
and eight miles; the voyage is performed, when the Etesian
winds are blowing, in twelve days. From Coptos the journey
is made with the aid of camels, stations being arranged at
intervals for the supply of fresh water. The first of these
stations is called Hydreuma,[25] and is distant[26] twenty-two
miles; the second is situate on a mountain, at a distance of one
day's journey from the last; the third is at a second Hydreuma,
distant from Coptos ninety-five miles; the fourth is on a mountain; the next to that is at another Hydreuma, that of Apollo,
and is distant from Coptos one hundred and eighty-four miles;
after which, there is another on a mountain. There is then
another station at a place called the New Hydreuma, distant from
Coptos two hundred and thirty miles: and next to it there is
another, called the Old Hydreuma, or the Troglodytic, where a
detachment is always on guard, with a caravansary that affords
lodging for two thousand persons. This last is distant from the
New Hydreuma seven miles. After leaving it we come to the
city of Berenice,[27] situate upon a harbour of the Red Sea, and
distant from Coptos two hundred and fifty-seven miles. The
greater part of this distance is generally travelled by night,
on account of the extreme heat, the day being spent at the
stations; in consequence of which it takes twelve days to perform the whole journey from Coptos to Berenice.
Passengers generally set sail at midsummer, before the
rising of the Dog-star, or else immediately after, and in about
thirty days arrive at Ocelis[28] in Arabia, or else at Cane,[29] in the
region which bears frankincense. There is also a third port
of Arabia, Muza[30] by name; it is not, however, used by persons
on their passage to India, as only those touch at it who deal
in incense and the perfumes of Arabia. More in the interior there is a city; the residence of the king there is called
Sapphar,[31] and there is another city known by the name of
Save. To those who are bound for India, Ocelis is the best
place for embareation. If the wind, called Hippalus,[32] happens to be blowing, it is possible to arrive in forty days at the
nearest mart of India, Muziris[33] by name. This, however, is
not a very desirable place for disembarcation, on account of the
pirates which frequent its vicinity, where they occupy a
place called Nitrias; nor, in fact, is it very rich in articles
of merchandize. Besides, the road-stead for shipping is a
considerable distance from the shore, and the cargoes have to
be conveyed in boats, either for loading or discharging. At
the moment that I am writing these pages, the name of the
king of this place is Cælobothras. Another port, and a much
more convenient one, is that which lies in the territory of the
people called Neacyndi, Barace by name. Here king Pandion
used to reign, dwelling at a considerable distance from the
mart in the interior, at a city known as Modiera. The district from which pepper is carried down to Barace in boats
hollowed out of a single tree,[34] is known as Cottonara.[35] None
of these names of nations, ports, and cities are to be found in
any of the former writers, from which circumstance it would
appear that the localities have since changed their names.
Travellers set sail from India on their return to Europe, at the
beginning of the Egyptian month Tybis, which is our December, or at all events before the sixth day of the Egyptian month
Mechir, the same as[36] our ides of January: if they do this,
they can go and return in the same year. They set sail from
India with a south-east wind, and upon entering the Red Sea,
catch the south-west or south. We will now return to our
main subject.
1. See the Notes at the end of this Book.
2. By descending the Indus, and going up the Persian Gulf.
3. Near the mouth of the Indus, Hardouin says.
4. One of Alexander's most distinguished officers, and a native of Pella.
He commanded the division of cavalry and light-armed troops which ac-
companied the fleet of Alexander down the Indus, along the right bank of
the river. The Alexandria here mentioned does not appear to have been
identified. It is not to be confounded with Alexandria in Arachosia, nor
yet with a place of the same name in Carmania, the modern Kerman.
5. A river Tomerus is spoken of by Arrian as lying between the Indus
and the river Arabis or Arbis.
6. They seem to have dwelt along the shores of the modern Mukran,
south of Beloochistan, and probably part of Kerman.
7. Called Nosala by Arrian. Ansart suggests that it is the island now
known by the name of Sengadip. It lay probably off the promontory or
headland of the Sun, on the eastern coast of Arabia.
8. Mela suggests the reason, but gives to the island a different locality—
"over against the mouth of the Indus." He says that the air of the
island is of such a nature as to take away life instantaneously, and appears
to imply that the heat is the cause.
9. Possibly that now known as the Rud Shur.
10. Properly the "Seven Trions."
11. The Persian kings, descendants of Achæmenes. He was said to have
been reared by an eagle.
12. Called the Promontory of Harmozon by Strabo. Hardouin says that
the modern name is Cape Jash, but recent writers suggest that it is represented by the modern Cape Bombaruk, nearly opposite Cape Mussendom.
13. Perhaps the modern Kishon, at the entrance of the Persian Gulf; or
that may be one of the four islands next mentioned.
14. The story of Pontoppidan's Kraken or Korven, the serpent of the Norwegian Seas, is as old as Pliny, we find, and he derived his information
from older works.
15. Forbiger has suggested that this may be the same as the modern
Djayrah.
16. Mentioned again in c. 29 of the present Book. Its modern name is
Pasa or Fasa-Kuri, according to Parisot.
17. Supposed to be the stream called by D'Anville and Thevenot the
Boschavir, the river of Abushir or Busheer.
18. A river of ancient Susiana, the present name of which is Karun.
Pliny states, in c. 31 of the present Book, that the Eulæus flowed round
the citadel of Susa; he mistakes it, however, for the Coprates, or, more
strictly speaking, for a small stream now called the Shapúr river, the ancient name of which has not been preserved. He is also in error, most
probably, in making the river Eulæus flow through Messabatene, it being
most likely the present Mah-Sabaden, in Laristan, which is drained by the
Kerkbah, the ancient Choaspes, and not by the Eulæus.
19. Called, for the sake of distinction, Charax Spasinu, originally founded
by Alexander the Great. It was afterwards destroyed by a flood, and rebuilt by Antiochus Epiphanes, under the name of Antiochia. It is mentioned in c. 31.
20. The Shushan of Scripture, now called Shu. It was the winter residence of the kings of Persia, and stood in the district Cersia of the province Susiana, on the eastern bank of the river Choaspes. The site of
Sisa is now marked by extensive mounds.
21. The island of Patala or Patale, previously mentioned in c. 23.
22. Most probably the Cape Ras-el-Bad, the most easterly peninsula of
Arabia.
23. 35,000,000 francs, according to Ansart, which would amount to
£1,400,000 of our money.
24. Pliny is the only writer that mentions this place among the towns of
Lower Egypt. Some suppose it to have been Nicopolis, or the City of
Victory, founded by Augustus B.C. 29, partly to commemorate the reduction of Egypt to a Roman province, and partly to punish the Alexandrians
for their adhesion to the cause of Antony and Cleopatra. Mannert, however, looks upon it as having been merely that suburb of Alexandria which
Strabo (B. xvii.) calls Eleusis.
25. From the Greek u(/dreuma, a "watering-place."
26. From Coptos, the modern Kouft or Keft. Ptolemy Philadelphus,
when he constructed the port of Berenice, erected several caravansaries or
watering-places between the new city and Coptos. Coptos was greatly
enriched by the commerce between Lybia and Egypt on the one hand, and
Arabia and India on the other.
27. Belzoni found traces of several of the stations here mentioned. The
site of Berenice, as ascertained by Moresby and Carless, 1830–3, was nearly
at the bottom of the inlet known as the Sinus Immundus, or Foul Bay.
Its ruins still exist.
28. Now called Gehla, a harbour and emporium at the south-western
point of Arabia Felix.
29. An emporium or promontory on the southern coast of Arabia, in the
country of the Adramitæ, and, as Arrian says, the chief port of the
increase-bearing country. It has been identified by D'Anville with Cava
Canim Bay, near a mountain called Hissan Ghorab, at the base of which
there are ruins to be seen.
30. Probably the modern Mosch, north of Mokha, near the southern
extremity of Arabia Felix.
31. Its ruins are now known as Dhafar. It was one of the chief cities
of Arabia, standing near the southern coast of Arabia Felix, opposite the
modern Cape Guardafui.
32. Or Favonius, the west wind, previously mentioned in the present
Chapter.
33. The modern Mangalore, according to Du Bocage.
34. Or canoes.
35. The Cottiara of Ptolemy, who makes it the chief city of the Æi, a tribe
who occupied the lower part of the peninsula of Hindostan. It has been
supposed to be represented by the modern Calicut or Travancore. Cochin,
however, appears to be the most likely.
36. Marcus observes that we may conclude that either Pliny or the author
from whom he transcribed, wrote this between the years of the Christian
era 48 and 51; for that the coincidence of the 6th of the month Mechir
with the Ides of January, could not have taken place in any other year
than those on which the first day of Thoth or the beginning of the year
fell on the 11th of August, which happened in the years 48, 49, 50, and 51
of the Christian era.